Today we set off on (part of) the world's longest train journey. After four nights on the train, we'll reach Irkutsk, in the heart of Siberia. I hope those couchette beds are comfortable!

We met a friend of Maria's who lives in Moscow, she gave us a fantastic meal, with a huge spread including Russian salad, Greek salad, chicken, cheese, ham and every sweet you can think of, despite saying she couldn't cook. Then yesterday we went round the Kremlin. In one of the cathedrals I noticed an old woman crossing herself at one of images of Jesus, then moments later beautiful singing appeared as if from nowhere. It was a 5-part cathedral choir, but the magic was lost somewhat when I noticed their stall selling a range of CDs.

As well as the many cathedrals, Moscow also has palatial metro stations swathed in marble (these carried on being built in WWII, to act as bunkers), many 10 lane highways and far too much traffic. Maria's friend says the drivers have recently become much more courteous to pedestrians, because of higher fines - I wouldn't like to have tried to a cross a road here a few years ago then!